1998 Best Wine List, Affordable

The wine list changes frequently, but its hallmark remains affordability. Consider this: old-vine 1996 Pernand-Vergelesses from Delarche for a mere $26; a fabulous Sauternes, the 1988 premier cru Chateux. La Tour Blanche, for $36; and, for a splurge, a simply great 1983 Hermitage “La Chapelle” for $89. Fetch me my reading glasses! Prices like these have got to be wrong. (But they’re not.)

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