The muscles on your face that give you the ability to smile—les zygomates, as the French call them—get a good workout at this Leather District restaurant of the same name, thanks to its wine list of more than 200 bottles. And it’s not just the obvious effects of the wine that make you grin. It isn’t even the good French food, live jazz, and laid-back downtown atmosphere. It’s the way the accessible, affordable wine list makes it easy to indulge in a bottle or two of your favorites. The lusty and juicy reds, crisp whites, and bubbly sparkling wines are available by the glass or in two-ounce tasting flights, and it will cost you only 20 bucks a pop for full bottles of Helderberg, Steen from South Africa, Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais-Villages from Burgundy, and Colosi from Sicily. Which is worth smiling about.