Fugakyu

2001 Best Sushi

This giant temple to raw fish may look like a Zen sanctuary, but don’t expect any peace or quiet. Between the circular sushi bar’s clamor and the bustle of waitresses trying to keep up with the relentless demand for maki, it’s difficult to meditate on the menu, let alone anything else. But then the reason for all this fuss arrives at your table: shining piles of pliant, deep ruby mahuro sashimi, briny and sweet abalone, luscious and firm yellowtail maki, and buttery, sweet toro. The exotic and artistically rendered fish here is unrivaled in the city—but even that, like the rest of Fugakyu, is more mind-blowing than mind-clearing.

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