Sushi Island

2007 Best Sushi, North

Those who make frequent worshipful visits to this midsize sushi joint know it doesn’t take much to coax chef-owner Junji Aoki out of his seemingly forbidding silence behind the bar. Just ask (and you might well have to ask, as specialties like firefly squid and monkfish liver aren’t often glimpsed in suburban environments), and Aoki will tell you how a particular delicacy is prepared, and how long it’ll be in season. Your taste buds, meanwhile, will tell you it’s simply dynamite.

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