Forget what you think you know about steak houses. The Oak Room, this year’s dark horse candidate, puts the usual contenders to shame. Vaulted plaster ceilings and meticulously carved oak walls to form a regal setting, the capable waiters assist you with old-school formality but not a touch of stuffiness. The steaks are perfect— well marbled, cooked exactly to order, served with your choice of bearnaise sauce or a red wine glaze. For the less carnivorous, there’s always the spectacular lobster bouillabaisse. The wine list is interesting and accessible to spenders big and small.