It’s hard to root for a champ, but when it comes to steakhouses Grill 23 has an overwhelming advantage. Why? Because this is not your traditional steakhouse: There isn’t sawdust on the floor, worn-out Laz-E-Boys for chairs, or sirloins so big they fall off the plates. Replacing those beef temple staples is restrained, refined elegance courtesy of a large, airy dining room, an extravagant wine list, and fastidious service. At Grill 23, the experience is as important as the steak: The prime-aged beef is reliably excellent, and the ambiance takes the steakhouse experience to an opulent level.