Any restaurant can decrumb your table or change your silverware 500 times during a meal. True service is something else entirely, and no one does it better than Bistro du Midi. We stumbled in on a rainy night after getting rudely booted from another packed spot. “Make yourself comfortable,” the hostess said with a smile. “Mind your knees,” a server chirped as he nudged our seat in toward the table. It’s the kind of coddling that puts an instant smile on your face—and chef Robert Sisca’s coastal-French cuisine keeps it there.