Best of Boston

1998 Best Mediterranean Restaurant, Contemporary

Rialto

How does the Rialto keep getting better? By growing itself is the only serious restaurant in the Square; by being so comfortable and discreet yet lively, both in the main restaurant and the super welcoming bar; and by paring away the Spanish, southern French, and Italian curios that once seemed essential to hold diners’ attention (and still do at other restaurants) so that what’s left is food you want to eat. The duo of chef Jody Adams and impresario-inspirer Michela Larson is rock-solid.

The Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St., Cambridge, 617-661-5050,