2009 Best Restaurant, General Excellence, North

Everything about Italian specialist L’Andana (which this magazine named the Best New Restaurant of 2008) is so generously proportioned that it might seem excessive. That’s fine by us, considering that Jamie Mammano of Mistral, Teatro, and Sorellina fame is the one laying on the flourishes. So, yes, we’ll happily loll in the overstuffed banquettes; order up big bowls of dreamy homemade pastas or three-course Tuscan suppers with enormous, flawlessly grilled steaks; and raise our giant wine glasses to the joys of going overboard.

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