In a town where buff young men in designer newsboy caps spend the better portions of their sun-filled days debating the question of where to eat dinner, said dinner had better be worth the discussion. At Chester, it is. Even if it didn’t boast a cosmopolitan interior of butter-yellow walls and bright art, a handsome, diverse clientele, and attentive service—Chester would be worth it for such culinary lovelies as foie gras with rhubarb confit and just-off-the-boat lobster in rich lobster coral sauce. Cap it off by ordering the orange blossom-honey mousse with caramelized blood oranges. Now the only question left is where to work off the calories.