Pizza Oggi

2004 Best Pizza, Traditional

Let the gourmets pile on their trendy precious toppings; the best serious classic pizza is the kind that gets the basics right. This barely decorated brick storefront in Jamaica Plain has its thin, simple pizzas down to a science: They’re doused with herbed olive oil and scattered with cornmeal, then slathered in a tomato sauce that’s tangy and slightly smoky. The crowning mozzarella starts out blistering hot, then cools to a smooth, gooey sweetness. If you really want it, you can get a version decked out with spicy sausage and such, but with flavor as pure as this, why bother?

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