Perhaps it’s a misnomer to call it gourmet. After all, what’s more traditionally Italian than a thin, crispy crust; fresh herbs and vegetables; smoky sausage; and fine cheeses? Then again, pizzerias in Rome aren’t likely to plunk goat cheese or their barbecued chicken on pizza, not to mention dried cranberries, walnuts, roasted sweet potatoes, or Gorgonzola. If you’re lucky, you’ll grab one of Emma’s five counter seats. If you’re smart, you’ll call ahead for takeout.