It was the delightful French pixie Amélie who set us on a quest for the perfect, crackable crème brûlée. And it’s another sylph, Pigalle pastry chef Stacy Klein (how does she stay so slim?) who’s finally delivered it. Klein’s creamy custard, infused with sweet corn, is heavenly under a patina of burnt sugar that cracks like glass. Also amazing is her grown-up version of s’mores, toasted á table and paired with milk-chocolate sorbet and candied kumquats. You’ll be tempted to skip your main course (but don’t!).