Best of Boston

We tend to approach modernist desserts with caution—though striking, can an elaborate plate of gel, fruit leather, and crumble actually taste good? In the hands of Harvest’s Brian Mercury, the answer is yes. That’s because his confections are built around something satisfying—like the zingy Key-lime tart anchoring passion-fruit gel and pickled kumquats, or the rich Taza-chocolate crémeux garnished with brown-sugar granola and sea salt that the chef harvests himself on the New England coastline.