Restaurants get made over more often than Ashlee Simpson. But the new incarnation of 53 South is more about-face than facelift. The eatery has moved to snazzier, red-walled digs in an old Pizza Hut and dramatically overhauled its menu, swapping staid French fare for brave global dishes that are better than ever. Our perfect meal: wasabi-crusted tuna with cardamom sticky rice and soy ginger beurre blanc, lemon-rosemary chicken with roasted-garlic corn flan, and lavender crème brûlée. Oh. And a bottle expertly paired by the fine sommelier.