Best of Boston

2004 Best New Restaurant, North

Catch

The most refreshing thing Catch has to offer is what it lacks. Pretense, for instance. Also thankfully missing is a menu full of confit of this and froth of that. But Catch has what counts: fresh, local ingredients served in an intimate setting by a knowledgeable and eager-to-please waitstaff. Dishes combine several elements that, while they may seem incongruous (Maine diver scallops with pineapple and braised-short-rib ravioli, for example), meld together sheer goodness.

34 Church St., Winchester, 781-729-1040,