Best of Boston

2003 Best Davis Square Restaurant, Neighborhood

Gargoyles on the Square

Despite the name, hardly any Goth influence exists at this intimate Davis Square hangout. In fact, the bar and adjacent dining room are welcoming digs with floor-to-ceiling café windows and walls painted in earthy browns and reds, more sophisticated and friendly than dark and scowling. The menu is equally approachable, with such thoughtful combinations as chile and honey-grilled salmon, braised short ribs, and Cervena venison with aged Vermont cheddar, celery root, and apples. It’s no wonder this spot is always humming with denizens, dressed in black or not, of its diverse surrounding neighborhood.

219 Elm St., Somerville, 617-776-5300,