Gargoyles on the Square

2004 Best Davis Square Restaurant, Neighborhood

Neither plain nor pretentious, this enchanting and candlelit treasure is a lesson in presenting good food with muted sophistication. Dishes including grilled salmon with tomato-tarragon butter or black-pepper pappardelle with chicken confit, fennel, and spinach, are as warm and agreeable as the earth-tone décor, while the bar menu shines with reasonably priced treats like frog legs with baby broccoli and oyster poboys. The room is cozy enough that finding a table on weekends can be competitive, but locals know the strawberry rhubarb croustada is worth lingering over. Besides, with such a lively bar, the wait is half the fun.

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