Sure, you’ll find General Gau’s chicken, lo mein, fried rice, and other Chinatown favorites on New Shanghai’s endless menu, but it’s unexpected details like a decent wine list, polished flatware, and cloth napery that sets this restaurant apart. Not to mention chef C. K. Sau’s dexterous and bold food, from spicy noodles laced with shredded pork and pickled cabbage, to strips of eggplant sautéed in garlic sauce. Sau’s true talent lies in his seafood preparations, particularly the crispy whole fish in a tangy, spicy sauce, and scallops adorned with a black peppercorn glaze. Feeling bold? Try the braised fish head, a surprisingly subtle and soothing casserole that, despite its name, is delicious—and, once eaten, gives you bragging rights.