Last year a new owner added “New” to the name of this steadfastly excellent Chinatown joint. Happily, that appears to have been his only real change. The spicy salt calamari remains one of the city’s best takes on tricky-to-cook squid. The XO sauce is still a house specialty, as are the dishes served in citrus-tinged Yu Hsiang sauce. And you will continue to find no fresher fish than the ones pulled from the large tanks that greet you at the door.