On any given night you’ll find some of the city’s top chefs here after work with chopsticks waving. The eight water tanks filled with live seafood make fish and shellfish obvious choices. Crispy calamari with jalapeño peppers go down like popcorn. And whole fish in a sweet and spicy sauce may cause you to look left, then right, then lick the plate if no one’s looking. They’re all stellar examples of fresh and delicious Hong Kong-style cuisine, but the kitchen also soars with pork chops, garlic-laden fresh pea tendrils, and eggplant. Added bonus: Jumbo stays open into the wee hours of the morning.