Les Zygomates Wine Bar & Bistro

1999 Best Bistro, French

Even if the food wasn’t great (which it is), Les Zyg would lure diners with its low-key atmosphere: light jazz playing background to friendly conversation, exposed-brick walls hung with vintage posters—all in the tradition of a bistro. Now add great food—pan-seared monkfish, crab cakes with avocado, king salmon Napoleon with clams au vermouth, steak au poivre—and a $19 prix-fixe menu Monday through Thursday, and flavor with a constantly revolving wine list that features some excellent choices from California as well as France.

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