This has become a crowded category, thanks to a rack of new barbecue joints around town and in the suburbs. But we’re going back to basics. Redbones, the funky, down-home joint in Davis Square, is the granddaddy of Boston barbecue, thanks to its efficient waitstaff, not to mention the biggest helpings of chicken, ribs, pork, and fish you’ve ever seen. Fortifying side dishes include succotash, hushpuppies, collard greens, corn fritters, and our favorite: Redbones’ signature black beans and dirty rice. The homey bar has 24 great beers on tap.